The Scent of Home

A potted herb garden

A few days ago, a Wednesday in December, I went to Lowe's outdoor garden center and bought herbs and flowers, tucked them into pots and set them outside onto the little patio area next to our RV; parked for the winter in Palm Springs, California. I marvel still at this flagrant display of disregard for winter, though the calendar confirms the date.

A ball carefully placed by Maggie for my notice

Each morning, I make a big steaming mug of tea, often from herbs picked and dried from my northern Minnesota garden nearly a year ago and sit in the sun with Maggie; me, plotting the day, she, returning the tennis ball I toss to her again and again. She is still perplexed by the idea of a chain, attaching her at a 20' length from the steps, something of a cruel joke to a 10 year old dog who almost never leaves my side. This is her first experience with such a clear assumption of future misdeeds but as long as I am present, she submits to the affront without indignation.

My sidekick

I used to sit with her on summer afternoons, 

reading in the herb garden near our house, 

with the pungent scent of black currant bushes on one side 

and the occasional breeze bringing me the scents of 

peppermint, chamomile and tarragon (long ago known by the 

mystical sounding name 'dragon's wort') on the other.

Contrary to gardening sense, early season herbs are the best to pick and dry for later use, holding the greatest amount of essential oils and therefore, flavor. Early summer was the time of year I would begin to gather and hang bunches of thyme, sage, savory, rosemary and tarragon for cooking and sprigs of mint and chamomile flowers for tea. Just as contradictorily, today I sit outdoors with my cup, just days before the winter solstice, celebrating at once the summers first harvest and the years end.

Cremini Mushrooms

At the end of the day, as I return home, I notice my newly planted herbs have perked up, having drunk in a rare southern California rain. The air is chilly and damp and I peer into our little refrigerator, deciding on dinner. Hmm. Pork tenderloin, mushrooms, a little goat cheese, lemons from a nearby tree, and herbs. I gather, mix, taste and stuff. A quick sear browns the exterior of the meat and I slip it into the oven (along with a handful of sweet potato wedges) until just medium. One taste and I am warmed instantly.

I slice a piece of Ciabatta from the loaf I purchased at the Farmers Market and sit, dog at my feet and after seemingly endless days and nights of sirens and city traffic noise I realize that it is suddenly, wonderfully and unexpectedly, as quiet as the northern Minnesota woods and I relax and enjoy this moment in time. 

Herbed Pork Tenderloin with Lemon and Herbs

This is a quick, easy and hearty dinner, ready in about 30 minutes. Serves 2-3

Local goat cheese and a lemon from a nearby tree

1 whole pork tenderloin – about 1¼ - 1½ #

Olive oil

1# cremini mushrooms, chopped

½ tsp chopped garlic

3/4 tsp rubbed sage

¼ tsp dried rosemary

¼ tsp dried thyme leaves

Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper

1 medium Lemon, zested and juiced (reserve separately)

2oz chevre cheese

Heat about 2 TBSP olive oil in a medium sauté pan.

Add chopped mushrooms, herbs and garlic and sauté until mushrooms are softened.

Add half of the lemon zest and all but 1 tsp of the fresh lemon juice.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Reduce the juices slightly then add goat cheese. It will melt into the mushrooms.

Place filling into a bowl and cool to lukewarm.

Lemon zest

Cut a pocket into the length of the tenderloin and stuff with the cooled mushroom mixture.

Seal the tenderloin by tying with string or with toothpicks.

Rub the tenderloin with the remaining lemon zest, salt pepper and lemon juice.

Sear the tenderloin in 1 tsp of olive oil until lightly browned.

Place the browned tenderloin in a baking dish and roast in a 350degree oven for 20 minutes or until a meat thermometer registers 140 degrees. Remove from oven and let rest 15 minutes.

Remove the picks or string, slice and serve.

I like to serve pork with roasted sweet potato wedges and a salad.

Recipe notes:

• Not a fan of mushrooms? Replace them with onions or winter squash. Sauté onions until caramelized, or squash until it begins to soften and continue the recipe.
• The rules have changed. It is perfectly safe to serve pork medium to medium well. Using a meat thermometer will take the guesswork out of roasting meat. If you are unsure of appropriate cooking temperatures, look for one with indicators of rare, medium and well done, etc.
• Warm dried herbs by rubbing between your palms over the pan. This releases the essential oils and ‘wakes up’ dried herbs.
• You can make this up the night before, hold it in the refrigerator, then sear and roast when you are ready the next day. The roast may take slightly longer to come up to temperature once it is thoroughly chilled.
• Microplane zesters are fabulous for citrus but any sharp grater will work.
• Make your own tea blend by mixing some of your favorite herbs together and steeping in boiling water for 5 minutes. I like to blend a pinch of green tea leaves with a pinch each of peppermint and chamomile flowers. Lemon verbena leaf is another great 'tea herb' and is prolific when grown in pots. Fresh grated ginger and a dash of honey or a drop of orange oil are great additions, too.